21 February 2016

NYFW 2016

RALPH LAUREN






Let's just say that Ralph can do NO wrong... The whole collection was PHENOMENAL. 'The show opened with a passage of neutral looks, and the first models came out wearing high-wasted trousers and neatly tailored blazers in shades of beige, a colour that has long been a Lauren signature.' Drawing inspiration from the ENGLISH COUNTRYSIDE and an arid landscape of the AMERICAN WEST all at once. I wouldn't be surprised if you caught one of these pieces in SHERLOCK HOLMES' closet...

RODARTE



RODARTE never fails to impress. Kate and Laura Mulleavy celebrated the 10th anniversary of Rodarte the other day. The whole collection came across like manifested DAYDREAMS, filled with ruffled leather, hand-cut palettes, mesh and lace sequins in patterns.

REEM ACRA



"It's a very seductive collection" said Acra. It was indeed, some dresses were so slinky they resembled burlesque slips with glimpses of garter belts peeking through their lacy silhouettes. Acra wasn't afraid to go all out with shiny accents and fringe this season. If LA PERLA were to meet evening gowns, it would be this collection. It's a definite that some of these pieces will make their way down this year's red carpets.

MARC JACOBS



'From the sight of the GOTH black eye makeup and lipstick, foot-high platforms, shrunken band-concert sweatshirt, crocheted doily collar and full skirt ballooning above a crinoline, we knew we were in for a show.' There was a variety of mixed feelings after the collection debuted, but it's undeniable that Marc Jacobs livened up NYFW with this gothic collection that wasn't expected.


COACH 1941






Where to begin... This whole collection looked like it emerged from an American high school. Getting nostalgic vibes from a mixture of Grease, Youngblood and Top Gun, I cannot be the only one. VEVERS took that bohemian spirit back to school and the show space was made to look like the gymnasium of some Ivy League college. The details included structured gym bags and metallic boots. What's not to love?

MARCHESA



Can you remember the last time Marchesa created a collection that DIDN'T include princess-worthy dresses? Probably not. Am I complaining? Definitely not. 'Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig took cues from the work of Edwardian artist John Singer Sargent, a man renowned for his paintings of high-society women.'  This wasn't the first, nor last, collection this season to have their models emerge with tiaras. A major detail from this collection would be the idea of 3D flowers shown in the second, fourth and fifth dresses above.


TOMMY HILFIGER





HILFIGER always loves a theme, and for this collection, it was cruise liners. As Hilfiger is steering his brand into new waters in September to become a more consumer-facing brand, it isn't a surprise that there were some 'socialite' models such as Gigi Hadid and Hailey Baldwin. In particular, I was very happy to see Imaan Hammam and Lineisy Montero walking in this collection. Overall, this show was a success. The baby pink, silk bomber jackets was a sight-for-sore-eyes and who could forget, those gorgeous metallic boots.


CUSHINE ET OCHS



Silk, slip dresses, velvet and more silk. Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs's latest collection was inspired by Louise Brooks, an American film actress and dancer noted as an iconic symbol of the flapper, goes to the circus. A notable detail would be the gloves, which added a hint of simplicity and elegance to complete the looks.


CALVIN KLEIN



'This show began with head-to-toe black tailoring-masculine, slightly oversize, sharp. It then quickly moved onto resurfaced prints as mix-and-match plaids on sturdy wool outerwear and suiting, as well as on more fluid silk shifts. Belted at the waist, sleeveless, and with slits up the sides, the dresses had a high wearability factor.' KLEIN was able to mix all the latest trends into ONE collection. 


MICHEAL KORS



 “Put a feather on it” was a mini mantra of this flirty show; they turned up in other unlikely places, fringing the pockets of a tweed coat and more expected ones, such as the skirts of short cocktail dresses and a pair of sequinned party pants. But, unfortunately, I'm no fan of feathers, as I prefer them when they're kept on birds. KORS kept his collection very minimal this year, with a lot of fur details (mhm), neutral tones and also found that the designer has been embracing PETER PAN COLLAR dresses.


VERA WANG





WANG kept this collection very minimal, starting the collection off with only black and white pieces, but eventually transitioned into more earthy tones. She managed to attenuate the silhouette she was going for by putting her models in towering platforms and ankle socks, no matter what they were wearing. Wang used this collection to experiment with belts and back details, which aren't necessarily viewable from the front, but can be seen from behind.




PROENZA SCHOULER



The Proenza designers, Jack Mccullough and Lazaro Hernandez, mentioned that Frank Stella was an influence for this collection. 'Last season they were peeling away the layers, this season we were putting them back together again.'  I was a huge fan of the DETAILS in this collection, particularly the HANDBAGS and the way they hung onto the models.

This is my LIST of my favourite collections from NYFW Fall Ready-To-Wear 2016. There were others, such as DKNY, Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone (etc) which were just as great, but unfortunately, they weren't my favourite... If this post gets good feedback, I might do a LFW, MFW and PFW post of my favourite collections aswell! Next post, Street Style...

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